For my own 12V system I am using the following components.
Everyone has different needs and will customise their own system to meet those needs.
It is vital you determine the maximum amount of power you will require at any given time.
For example i know i will never exceed 270 AMPS DC. A domestic 230V AC kettle can require in excess of 250 DC Amps@ 12V to operate and i know i cannot boil 2 kettles at the same time using my system. Your system may differ in battery and Inverter voltage (24/48V)
It is Important to understand that safety should always be a priority when building your own system. Think of worse case scenario and try to account for it in your design.
Remember to size all cables, lugs, switches and fuses properly for your needs.
Fuses only protect the cables so never use a higher rated fuse on cables designed to carry limited amps / voltages.
In my system i wanted to be able to isolate the inverter for any reason as well as each individual battery bank. Your own system may only require a single switch.
The more connections made, the higher the resistance will be on your cables and this resistance generates heat and heat can cause fires, so please use extreme caution.
See the table below or input your system voltage and inverter wattage to see what size cables, fuses and lugs to use. Note- This Feature is in experimental mode and may not always be 100% accurate and simply serves as a rough guide.
I have connected my solar panels in series. This increases voltages and reduces AMPS.
The panels are connected using 10AWG cable & MC4 connections to the main solar disconnect switch. From here they go through a DC breaker which in turn feeds the solar charge controller input.
The main positive is connected to the positive side busbar and the negative goes to the negative side busbar.
The main negative busbar feeds to the inverter negative and is then connected to the Victron Smart Shunts and then onto the main negative post of the battery bank. The batteries are connected together using 50mm cable in parallel configuration.
Every battery has a MRBF fuse on the positive terminal.
The main positive cables are also connected to a 300A ANL fuse before going into the main switch. From here they feed through a 300 amp class T fuse before going to the main positive side busbar.
The busbar then connects to another switch (This allows me to isolate the inverter for maintenance while allowing the solar input to still operate and charge the batteries) and from here to the main inverter positive DC input..
Use the chart above to quickly identify what minimum size cables, lugs and fuses you will need for the inverter and battery voltage you decide to use. Choose the Inverter Wattage and system voltage to help you pick the correct items. Hope it Helps!
While my own Inverter is capable of a peak output of 7000W to meet surges, I know my system will never exceed 270 amps and as such I went with 50mm cables rated at 345 Amps DC and not 70mm as shown in the table above.
I will be updating this to show solar components when time allows.
This table is a general guide. For exact specifications, especially for unique installations or longer distances, consult with a professional or refer to local electrical codes.
Knowing the correct cables, terminal sizes and fuses for your system can be overwhelming for some, so here is a handy cross reference to assist you. Most battery terminals use M8 or M10 sized terminals.
(A = W / V).
For a 1000W inverter on a 12V system:
I have listed the basic parts you will need for a complete 100 watt solar system.
For this example i have listed a 12 volt 50 amp hour AGM lead acid battery, but choose one that will meet your own needs / budget.
If you can afford a Lifepo4 battery get one as it will last a very long time & will provide a full 50 amp hours.
The lead acid can only give 50% of its rating, so 25 amp hours.
Also remember a 12v 100 watt solar panel cannot charge a 24 volt system and it would struggle to fully charge a larger amp hour battery in a single day.
The inverter is 400 watts which will power most Tv's etc. If in doubt check the wattage rating of the item you want to power & buy an inverter rated to meet your demands.
Solar cables are needed to connect the solar charge controller, solar panel & battery. Always connect the battery to the charge controller before connecting the solar panel!
Everything bought individually would cost under £240.00 (prices are subject to changes)
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These are affiliate links which means i may receive a commission if you buy anything
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